Day 106: Dine and Dash isn't really an option is it?

Tuesday, April 26, 2011 Posted by Terry
It's probably a common assumption that not being able to pay for your dinner at a restaurant is all around embarrassing for everyone involved.  But after tonight, I can assure you that it's only embarrassing for the person who is supposed to be carrying the cash.

Before I spill the gory details, I thought I would at least let you know what we had. My favorite Peruvian dish is Lomo Saltado which Elizabeth orders along with a Peruvian drink called Chicha Morada (made from purple corn, delicious and similar in taste to apple cider).  I order the Ceviche de Mariscos (fish, shrimp, clams and octopus "cooked" by the acidity of lemon juice) and a Pepsi (didn't see that they had Inca Kola, a yellow Peruvian cola that tastes like Big Red).

I tell you this because had we even considered we only had $95 pesos in cash, we could have order a number of other items and been fine, but we made zero attempt, absolutely none, to do so.  Apparently, our euphoria of finding a Peruvian restaurant while in a new part of town was too strong to consider such mundane things.

Once I had realized that my rough estimate of our bill would be more then we had I had for the bill, hoping for some billing miracle but we were on the hook for $105 pesos. With a confirmation that they didn't take credit cards, I was scrambling for some sort of translation of "I'm an idiot and we don't have enough cash. Is there an ATM nearby".

I left Elizabeth behind as an international sign of "good faith" while I ran down the street.  Three different banks and a half mile later, I returned in defeat.  The single ATM card I had on me wasn't working at any of our normal banks. "Invalid operation"??

I'm stuck with three crappy options.  1) Get Elizabeth's attention through the window and gesture somehow that she needs to make a run for it; 2) use my debit car to purchase a Pepsi next door to replace my $10 peso Pepsi; or 3) Suck it up and tell them we will return tomorrow with the $10 pesos and tip.

Of coarse I picked option 3.  My apology was apparently a great show because everyone was smiling ear to ear (the waiter, the owner and Elizabeth).  So tomorrow, we have the pleasure of retracing our steps to find this mystical Peruvian restaurant to clear our balance.  But the waiter will have to wait to get his tip from the owner, because he doesn't work again until Wednesday.

 I guess a plug for their website is also in order: El Cocoroco

Apartment Hunting Round 2

Sunday, April 24, 2011 Posted by Elizabeth
Two weeks ago, we received word that our apartment owner was raising our rent 20% ($3200 pesos to $4000 pesos).  Not uncommon because inflation is a constant part of life here in Argentina.  The government numbers put it at around 10% a year, but most 3rd party economists think it's somewhere around 30%.

Unwilling to afford the extra $400 pesos, our roommates have decided to search for a cheaper living situation.  Since we aren't wanting to take over the entire apartment ourselves, our move out date is April 30th as well.  We've enjoyed living here, but we're also now on a search for a new place to call home.

There are many websites available to find an apartment or to find a roommate in Argentina.  Here are some of the ones that we have been using.

CompartoDepto --  Advertisements directly from people looking to fill a spare bedroom.

Craigslist - Most ads are real estate brokers/agents, especially for furnished apartments, but there are a few that are directly from owners. Also Craigslist isn't commonly used by Argentinians, so you will most likely see higher prices geared toward traveler with dollars/euros instead of an Argentinian student.  Searching isn't easy because of the tendency to list prices in pesos sometimes and other times in dollars. Generally you can distinguish the difference (ie $2000 pesos = $500 dollars) but it makes it harder to filter the list down especially because about a quarter of the ads show a weekly price instead of monthly.


Spare Rooms BA - They act as a middleman to pair up people with a room and the people looking for one for a small $55 commission. Easy to search the barrios you want and narrow down the listings which offer the amenities you consider a must haves (WiFi, A/C, double bed, etc).  Also the profiles are usually very complete. We had a problem filtering down the results that fit our desired rental period.  While we specified the next 3 months, it still showed apartments not available. 


Room Argentina  - Allows you to not only look for shared apartments but also individual furnished apartments. They have a wide variety of apartments sizes and price ranges.

4 Rent Argentina  - Allows you to look for shared apartments, individual furnished apartments, guesthouses and hotels.

Buenos Aires Habitat  Allows you to search from studios up to 3 bedroom apartments. Very nice apartments more than we want to pay

Baires Apartments  Allows you to search from budget to luxury apartments

Over the past 2 weeks, we've sent out a lot of correspondence but have only received a response from a handful.  So far, we've visited 2 apartment but neither we close enough to perfect that would make us jump on the opportunity.  Also, they weren't really in an area I am dying to live in.

Keep your fingers crossed because we have 6 days until our bags are on the curb.

Day 98: Our First 10K

Wednesday, April 20, 2011 Posted by Terry
Well, this past weekend, we did it.  We ran the FILA 10K in Palermo.  So we can now crossed it off our Argentina To-Do List.  

Over the past few years Elizabeth and I have ran a few 5Ks here an there, but neither of us would consider ourselves to be a runner. Mostly because we usually make more plans to run then we actually keep. 

Day 95: Colonia Uruguay for a Visa Run

Saturday, April 16, 2011 Posted by Terry
For the permatourist, Argentina is a rather easy place to live. While you're not supposed to work, your only real requirement is that you step outside Argentina every 3 months with no limit to how long you can do this.

The popular choice for a border run is Colonia del Sacramento because it's an hour ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata.  There are three ferry lines that make this trip. Buquebus is the largest, most expensive and has the nicest most modern boats.   The alternatives are Colonia Express and Seacat, which are both much cheaper (50%+ in most cases) using renovated boats.  If you are making this trip, I put some additional information at the bottom of this post.


Colonia is a historic Portuguese City dating back to 1680.  Its a quaint town where you can walk up the 112 steps to the top of the lighthouse, walk down the docks or head to the beach.  The beaches are sandy but because it is technically on a freshwater river (30 miles wide), its hard to find a section deeper then 4 feet without walking really far out.

Day 94: La Boca

Friday, April 15, 2011 Posted by Elizabeth
La Boca is probably Buenos Aires' most well known barrio, located in the south-east corner of the city.  It's famous for a few reasons; a very small street called Caminito, home to the Boca Juniors' soccer team, the birth places of Tango and last but not least its dangerous reputation.


Fact is there is no bigger tourist haven/trap in Argentina then Caminto, which is why it's taken us 3 months to get over there.  Caminito and some side streets around it are well known for their cobble stone streets surrounded by brightly colored immigrant housing.  They were originally painted using whatever paint they could find left over at the docks nearby, or so the story goes. Today, the colorful building remain but the area is now filled with restaurants, pairs of tango dancers, and side-by-side souvinoer shops that go on forever.  Sounds fun until you notice you can't walk by a single person without an insistent request to take a photo or sit and buy a drink.  While the sights are more interesting then a Mexican border town market, it's just as off putting. 

Day 92: Day trip to Lujan to speak with the man upstairs about petting a tiger

Wednesday, April 13, 2011 Posted by Terry
This past Monday, Elizabeth and I made took a 2 hour bus ride to Luján, a small town north of Buenos Aires.  We heard about this city from our Spanish tutor who had recommended it as a close place where Argentinians visit for a day trip.


Day 90: 400 Miles

Monday, April 11, 2011 Posted by Elizabeth
Since leaving Oklahoma on January 10th 2011 Terry and I, have been walking almost everywhere.  It's not that we don't like to take a bus or the subway here or there, but right now all we have is time so why not walk and see the city at a foots pace  

Here are some photo highlights of our 400 miles
 
Miles 0 - 12 Washington D.C. USA


Miles 13 - 25 Bogota, Colombia 

Day 89: La Flor

Sunday, April 10, 2011 Posted by Elizabeth
La Flor is a large metal sculpture which is set in a reflecting pond located in Plaza Naciones Unidas.  This massive flower is not only unique because of the size but also because the petals open and close with the level of the sun.  The flower opens up at 8:00am and remains open until sunset, where the pistons in the middle light up to a vibrant red and the silver reflects the many lights surrounding the reflection pond. 

Terry and I have visited the park a couple of time while on a run and never had our camera, so we decided to go back around nightfall and capture the closing of La Flor.  We got there while there was still plenty of sun light and waited for the flower to transform.  After about an hour and a half of waiting and practicing our Spanish we were whistled at (along with the other anxiously waiting guest) to leave the park.  So the only transformation we saw that night was the closing of a park.  Maybe it is broken right now, so we will have to give it another try.

Here are some of our pictures from the night.


Day 88: 4 years of Wedded Bliss

Saturday, April 9, 2011 Posted by Elizabeth
Terry and I have been married for 4 years. It seems like just a few months ago we were walking down the aisle.  I can still remember all the emotions that were running through me on that morning when I was preparing to become Mrs. Hepner.  That day was the start of this great story we are writing.


Since we have been married we have been fortunate to take a trip every year for our anniversary.

Day 82-83: A weekend of fine print, late nights and an asado

Tuesday, April 5, 2011 Posted by Elizabeth
Of course we jumped at the chance to pickup $16 GroupOn tickets for 30 Seconds to Mars.  I've always loved the lead singer (Jared Leto) and couldn't wait to see our first concert in Argentina.

The following day, the show started at 9:30 pm, so we arrived about 90 minutes early to the venue (Luna Park).  Our walk from the subway exit to Luna Park had us totally pumped as we walked past a hoard of vendors selling 30 Seconds to Mars shirts, stickers, etc. When we walk up to the building, we notice several number entrances but didn't know which one to use, so we walk up to the first available door guy.  After looking at our printed ticket he points us to the corner ticket office.  Two ticket booths later and a half lap around the building, we find the one for online sales.  Without saying a word, the lady takes our printout, highlights a sentence on our ticket and slides it back.  It was an address and hours of operation. One of the conditions of the GroupOn was that we were supposed to retrieve our real ticket from a separate location earlier in the day before 6pm (it being almost 8:30pm now).

With a slim hope that maybe they would still be still be open due to the concert, we decided to make an attempt to go anyways. Problem was we couldn't find this address on our map and everyone we asked (doormen, policemen) weren't familiar with it.  Terry did finally get a wireless connection on his phone only to find that the location was 30 minutes away.  Our tickets didn't look to be panning out, but I was still holding out to some sort of miracle, but deep down I knew this concert wasn't going to happen.

Our plan B was a mix match of either waiting by the guest list area for some sort of miracle ticket or buying a scalped ticket as the concert was closer to starting.  The "miracle ticket" never materialized and we overheard the scalped ticket sales pitch start at $100 for a pair (too expensive for a possible junk ticket).

Month 3 Update - March 2011

Sunday, April 3, 2011 Posted by Terry
We're closing out our third month away from home and it's been a blast. Our Spanish comprehension is really picking up, but we're still struggling at forming our own thoughts without dumbing them down to the conversation skills of a 3 year old. As you can imagine, our days are filled with the learning experiences that come along with spouting off an embarrassing phrase.  For example, while signing up for the FILA 10K, Elizabeth attempted to explain that we don't have a DNI number (all residents have one and they're similar to a SSN). She intended to say "Soy una extranjera" (I'm a foreigner) but "Soy extraño" came out instead ("I'm strange" or more colloquially as "I'm gay").  Needless to say, this illicited a big smile from the person signing us up and it was fully understood that we were indeed foreigners.  We followed this little gem up with our responses to what size shirt we wanted.  "Largo" and "medio" were our responses.  I couldn't hold back my smile as I realized that I'd just asked for a "long" shirt and Elizabeth had asked for a "half" shirt.  Live and learn.

To motivate ourselves to be more active, we have kept a log of all of our daily walks/runs since we left OKC.  This past month, we've logged 147 miles between a formal 5K, two 5K hash runs, our daily walks and occasional evening runs.  It's easy to rack up the miles when twice a week we're walking 1.25 miles each way to our Spanish tutor.  We're hoping with some longer runs over the next 2 weeks we'll be ready to run the FILA 10K on April 17th.